Quetzal Quest

The definitive sighting for a visit to the Monteverde cloud forest is a Resplendent Quetzal. We set out early to walk the smaller reserve at Santa Elena rather than trying to beat the tour buses to the main Monteverde reserve.

We've clearly made a good choice as the parking lot is not very crowded. On the map, the ticket guy points out two viewing platforms where we should be able to get good views of the volcano Arenal. Several hummingbird feeders are placed near the entrance and right away we see a Violet Sabrewing.

We pick a trail that is the most direct to the viewing platforms. The cloud forest is the jungle of the movies and our imaginations. Moist Caribbean trade winds cool and become dense clouds that bathe the forest in 100% humidity. After driving up on the dry dusty road, the damp trail seems dream like, not real. None of the pictures we take will ever do the place any justice at all. Birding is tough, although we can hear lots of activity. I get good views of several warblers.

For a long time we can hear loud call. Getting close, we pass a guide with a big spotting scope and several pilgrims in tow, going the other way. Nearby is a viewing spot. I resist the urge to turn around and follow the guide. Clearly the bird is right in front of us now, and I scan for a long time, but can't find anything in the green riot of detail.

After a while, I realize that we are on the wrong loop, but I don't tell Dan because it's all good and I don't want to start anything. We get back to the junction after 3 or 4K and try again. After about 4K more the wrong way around the loop, we come upon a big rusting tower. I push aside all fear and march up the stairs. The last platform is up a ladder along the edge of the tower and I balk, but Dan goes up. "You have to come up here" he says. "I can't". 8 feet. Ah well. It's Dan's day, so good for that. The view from here is just fine. The view of Arenal stunning. We can hear the zip lines from the park next door.

The tower provides a climax to our cloud forest story, so we wander back towards the car. Along the way I am scanning the forest for more birds and stop several times to watch the crowds of warblers that congregate near the streams. Near the trail head I stop to watch some activity high up. It takes a while to pick the green guys out of the foliage, but the more I look, the more I see. There's about a dozen gorgeous Blue-crowned Chlorophonia flitting around in the canopy.

The Quetzal has eluded us today, but I am not much for checking things off on a list, and I am glad for any reason to return. I am sure you could come here every day for the rest of your life and see something new. Me gusta reserva Santa Elena. Me gusta mucho.